Few stadiums throughout CONCACAF have the reputation of Estadio Saprissa. Known throughout the region as La Cueva del Monstruo or The Monster's Cave, the 24,000-seat stadium, which serves as the home for Deportivo Saprissa and the Costa Rican National Team, is one of the most intimidating venues in CONCACAF.
I was there during the winter months of June and July, a few weeks before the Costa Rican Premier Division (Liga FPD) season. The winter is not like that back home in the Midwest; it's 70 degrees with rainfall during the day, but that rain clears up quickly, opening up to blue skies.
Saprissa Stadium has a reputation as one of the most intimidating soccer grounds in the Americas. The home of Deportivo Saprissa is known throughout Costa Rica as La Cueva del Monstruo (The Monster’s Cave), and the club itself is known as the Purple Monster.
The team has called the site home since 1972 after a six-year process that saw the planning and construction of the stadium. Its location in the San Juan de Tibas neighborhood was chosen for its proximity to the capital and other cities in the league of Alajuela, Cartago, and Heredia.
It is a neighborhood stadium that is easily accessible by the interstate that runs beside it a few yards away; once in front of the venue, the narrow and small streets of Tibas are flooded with thousands of fans embarking on it for game day, transforming the streets to a sea of purple.
Once inside, the proximity of the stands to the pitch can be daunting. Former United States men’s national soccer player Alexi Lalas stated that it was one of the most “intimidating” and “difficult” places to play. Landon Donovan mentioned that you could hear the fans stomping their feet above the dressing rooms. “It felt like an earthquake for a half hour while you’re changing.”
The stadium was open, and employees and delivery services walked in and out of the main entrance. I held up my cell phone to the security guard and said "fotografias" in the best Spanish I could muster. After he replied with a few words and concluded with the word "rapido" I knew I had to make the most of my time inside the venue.
“La Cueva” is not the most picturesque soccer grounds in the world, but when it’s packed with thousands of fans in purple, that would be a different story. I walked up the main concourse in the seating bowl and envisioned what that would look like. I took in a match around 25 years ago, and it was nothing I have seen before or since.
The supporter group moved up and down like a monster’s tail, and smoke, sparklers, and paper littered the area throughout the match. There appeared to be two standing-room-only sections behind both goals. It was calm today, but a full house would make a great video.
I took several photos and videos and walked around a bit more. I then snuck inside the concourse underneath the stands to see what kind of food one would eat at a Saprissa match. One of the stands sells pupusas, empanadas, vigoron, and palmitos (pop corn). There was also chifrijo, a local Costa Rican dish with rice and beans topped with chicharrón (pork belly), a little bit of chimichurri, and chili peppers, served with tortilla chips.
The stadium is not fancy, and parts were under construction during the visit. A few workers were taking a break in the club seating area and were puzzled by my appearance and my English narration. I am sure that is not something that they see every day. A few of the railings on the aisles needed a paint job, and a few seats needed to be bolted back into place. However, I am unaware if there are major renovation plans for the stadium at this time.
As I write this article, the Liga FPD is four weeks into the season, with Saprissa sitting in fourth place in the standings behind Cartagines, Alajuela, and Sporting San Jose. However, the season is young in the Torneo de Apertura, what we would call the Opening Tournament, which will conclude in December. The league is split into two seasons, with the Torneo de Clausura (Closing Tournament) lasting from January to May.
One day I will be back for a match, but for now, it will have to be a tour.
Follow all of Marc’s stadium journeys on Twitter @ballparkhunter and his YouTube channel. Email at Marc.Viquez@stadiumjourney.com
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