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Writer's pictureMarc Viquez

Regional Food: St. Paul Sandwich


Photo Courtesy of Crysta Henthorne / KCUR 89.3


A few regional food items are so obscure that they go unnoticed in the surrounding community. I encountered this when visiting two minor league ballparks in St. Louis, Missouri. The St. Paul sandwich is one secretive little regional food item.


The sandwich is served at many Chinese restaurants throughout the metro area and even in a select few restaurants throughout the state. It is egg-foo young served crispy on white bread with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and a dollop of mayonnaise. The egg-foo young either contains beef, pork, chicken, shrimp, or no meat. The sandwich costs between $2 and $3.50, making it a very inexpensive menu item.


Like the hamburger and hot dog, the St. Paul sandwich's origins are somewhat disputed. One account has it created in the 1940s in St. Louis by a chef who named it after his hometown of St. Paul, Minnesota, while some have insisted that the sandwich was first served at logging camps in Denver, Colorado, in the early 20th century. The St. Paul sandwich seems to be a clear fusion of Chinese and American cooking.


I enjoy having a food origin debate; however, if it was not created in St. Louis, why can it only be found in the city? The only other areas where the sandwich can be found are in other parts of the state in Columbia, Springfield, and Jefferson City. Good luck ordering this sandwich in Chicago, Detroit, Indianapolis, or St. Paul, Minnesota.


The sandwich is not served at any of the two minor or summer league ballparks on the outskirts of the city CarShield Field home of the River City Rascals in O’Fallon and GCS Ballpark home to the Gateway Grizzlies in Sauget, Illinois.


Meanwhile, the home of the Grizzlies is known for its own interesting take on ballpark food that has gained national attention. The donut burger, deep-fried slider, cheesesteak nachos, and hot dogs with grilled onions, bacon, and nacho cheese are offered, or offered, at one time. However, the St. Paul sandwich is not one of them in the small Illinois town outside St. Louis.


If you order it without meat, the St. Paul sandwich makes a great vegetarian option, and its price is extremely economical for tight budgets or a quick snack. There also does not seem to be an upscale version anywhere in the town. I am sure an egg foo young patty with lobster, served on a brioche bun, with garlic-lemon aioli is just around the corner.


I have been told that the best St. Paul sandwiches have crispy edges, just like a great old-fashioned burger; however, many Chinese restaurants in the city do not serve the sandwich. You can still grab one at many locations in St. Louis, and perhaps this could be your new favorite bite to eat in a city that has its share of regional items.



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Follow all of Marc’s stadium journeys on Twitter @ballparkhunter and his YouTube channel. Email at Marc.Viquez@stadiumjourney.com 


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