I picked an odd time to visit London.
Not because it was October and the weather was cold and rainy, but because there were no football matches in either the Premier or Championship due to the international break, a period when players are called up to represent their national teams in international matches. It was my first time in town since 1997, and I wasn’t leaving without watching a match.
Luckily, there were matches in League One and Two, but they were not without their issues. Since it was the international break, the Leyton Orient match was postponed due to its players representing their countries. AFC Wimbledon match was in jeopardy of being played due to flood damage to the corner of the pitch two weeks earlier.
What a strange time to be in London for a football match.
Thankfully, things worked out. Leyton had a Tuesday match against Colchester in the Bristol Street Motors Trophy. It is a midweek knockout cup competition in EFL League One and League Two, plus an additional 16 invited sides from Premier League and EFL Championship clubs with Category One Academies.
I exited the London Underground at Leyton Station and passed the TK Maxx, which is what it is named in the UK, across the street towards the stadium. I trekked through the winding roads of the residential neighborhood, with houses stuck together. After a 15-minute trot, I find myself at Brisbane Road.
The walk from The Underground stop is about 15 minutes through a residential neighborhood.
The atmosphere was different from a regular season matchup on a Saturday afternoon. Only one stand was open for the match, resulting in a crowd of around 1,800 attending the rain-soaked match underneath the floodlights of Brisbane Road. The club reduced ticket prices for adults to as low as £5 and £1 for children under 17.
The atmosphere was not what I had expected, but I enjoyed my visit. I enjoyed a pie and double mash in the concession area. The parsley sauce and a splash of malt vinegar were perfect for the cold rain outside the grounds. I probably could have enjoyed a pint of lager or another pie, but as I finished my last bite, I noticed a gentleman wearing a Toronto Maple Leafs jersey.
His name is Todd, and he is there with his daughter. He is a lifelong Leyton fan through his mother and grew up a few blocks away from the stadium. He tells me that the stadium has not changed much in his lifetime, but the neighborhood has. Leyton has gone through gentrification and has seen an influx of young professionals moving into the neighborhood. High Road, once in dilapidated condition, is now filled with bars, restaurants, and nightlife.
Leyton fans wait in line during half-time for a pint or a pie.
He sounds like he is describing Wrigley Field to me since anyone I know under the age of 35 has to tell me how they live either in Wrigleyville or two or three stops away from Wrigleyville. I can tell you one thing: not one person will say they are from Leyton when I return to Indiana.
We chatted a bit more about the team’s promotion to League One, the rise in ticket prices, and our hockey teams over in North America. Two days later, the Leafs would go on to beat my New Jersey Devils. I handed him a card, and later that night, he followed me on Twitter. Hopefully, he enjoys the shout-out in this story.
Brisbane Road embodies the classic English football ground, featuring four distinct stands, covered seating for spectators, and a designated section for away fans. The name "Leyton Orient" is prominently showcased on the roof's gable, while "Orient" is spelled out clearly in the empty seats of the South Stand.
A rare look at The O's playing in a nearly empty stadium and under the floodlights
Would I have enjoyed seeing a packed building, something Todd says happens frequently? Yes, but I was excited just to be at a match in a stadium in London.
Leyton won on penalty kicks. After the game, I walked through the giant steel gates onto the main street to visit the club shop. It had been closed during the match, and I wanted to pick up an official kit as a souvenir. For us Americans, ordering a jersey online from England results in sizes such as a 3XL being too small for me.
I then stumbled into the supporters' room, where I was allowed to mingle without paying the mandatory £1. I spoke with several members of the club and enjoyed a beer for £5, the lowest I would purchase a pint for during my trip. I glanced up and down at the photos and memorabilia on the walls, enjoyed the cask draughts pumping out the pints, and then I was introduced to one of the team's owners.
The Leyton Supporters Group area offers £5 pints from the draught or the cask.
His name is Kent Teague, and he is from Dallas, Texas. He told me he was looking for a team in the MLS or minor league baseball in the States but then opted for one in England. He is 1 of 22 Americans who own one of the 72 EFL teams in the top four divisions. It was an interesting conversation and one that I was not expecting as the bell rang to signify the last call for beer.
After that, I was on my way back home for my hour-plus ride to the Wadsworth section of town, where my Airbnb was located. Thankfully, the Tube was not crowded, and I was able to find a seat as I enjoyed the views of the various stations zipping by me. My first football game in England was in the books.
The next day, I began plans to visit AFC Wimbledon, which at the time made international headlines due to its pitch being destroyed by flood waters from the nearby Waddle River a little more than two weeks earlier. It caused the cancellation of two matches, and its EFL Cup game moved to Newcastle. The schedule said they were set to play at Plough Lane but were unaware of the work being done.
The skies are blue, and the pitch is ready to go at Plough Lane, a week earlier, it was unplayable.
Crew and volunteers worked night and day to restore the corner of the pitch that looked more like a bunker on a golf course. More than 100,000 liters were pumped from the stadium and, through resurfacing, cutting, and resodding, turned the field into a playable condition in time for the Saturday afternoon tilt against Carlisle.
What I did not know at the time was that the game was sold out, and I had not been confirmed by my press credentials for the match. I had several emails sent to who I had hoped would credential me, but nothing positive. I walked to the media area of the stadium and pleaded my case to a man named George, who checked my email messages. He said that they never made it to the media department but gladly issued me a pass.
I had about 90 minutes before the match and made my way around the mixed residential/commercial neighborhood to find a pub. The Corner Pin looks like a typical English Pub, the type that would be recreated in the States. However, two security officers ask to see your ticket before entering. It is a home pub, and fans with away tickets must go elsewhere for a drink.
The Corner Pin is a designated pub for home fans before the match.
Once inside, the small pub was bristling with fans clamoring near the bar for a pint. It was so crowded that I hesitated to purchase a beer for around £6.50. I made my way to the back patio lined up with old-school AstroTurf flooring. An older gentleman spoke to me with a heavy British accent, one that I couldn’t understand. He might as well have spoken to me in Basque because I had no clue what he was talking about.
I spotted a man donning a Bears cap, and we talked for a few minutes about London and why it was hard to catch a football match this week. He originally purchased tickets for the Leyton game and then quickly found one for this game a few days before. He was unaware of the international break, when you have more NFL games in town than Premier League games, you picked an odd time to be in London.
Plough Lane, Cherry Red Records Stadium, for sponsorship reasons, was much different than Brisbane Road. It was built in 2020 and had a covered concourse with a view of the field from the main stand and modern toilets and concession stands. The walls were decorated with team pictures, paintings, murals, and memorabilia. Folks lined up to grab pints of beer from plastic reusable cups, and plenty of flaky meat pies were devoured.
The Speedway Bar offers a lot more than the beer, wine, and cider on its menu.
I would have been happy just being here, but I made it downstairs to the Reston Waste South Stand, the heart and soul of the stadium. The supporter section provides an ideal backdrop with songs and chants that resonate throughout the rest of the stadium. They had plenty to cheer about, with a 3-0 lead at halftime.
Behind the stand is The Speedway, where food trucks line the interior walls serving food found on the streets of New York, Mexico City, Buenos Aires, and Sydney, Australia. The Speedway Bar overflowed with cider, lagers, and wine. The Phoenix Bar was full of supporters enjoying craft beer.
This is one of a few food trucks offering international treats such as choripan and milanesa
Perhaps a similar atmosphere would have existed at Leyton Orient today if that game had not been postponed. However, those are the breaks you get when you visit London during the international break in the football season.
There were more observations, a contingency of Chicago Bears fans were in town for the London NFL game the next day. They wore their team colors but also wrapped themselves in a few AFC Wimbledon scarves and kits. Just like me, they were hoping to watch a football game while in town; it was the only match in town; the closest other match was in Crawley Town, 27 miles to the south.
With so many Chicago fans, I wonder if The Dons now have a presence in the Windy City. Speaking of merchandise, I never saw a shop packed with merchandise and fans in a queue (great, I am picking up the local terms). Jackets, various kits, t-shirts, caps, scarves, stuffed Womble dolls, gloves, and books were grabbed by many. At least a dozen men were trying on kits to check the fit.
After The Dons tallied their final goal to make it a 4-0 thrashing of Carlisle, I hung around The Phoenix Bar with a few hundred fans. I bumped into a family that saw me at the Craven Cottage tour a few days earlier; a small world. By this time, the London weather was getting colder, and it was time to make it to the bus to get back home.
Dusk settled in, and my bus stop was in front of The Woodman Pub on Durnsford Road, another elegant-looking place for a drink. A few patrons stumbled out of the bar laughing and hopped on the bus with me. The bus weaved through the winding roads of South London and towards my short trip back to Wadsworth.
What game did I enjoy the most? Probably Wimbledon, but they were both great experiences for a first-timer. I wish I had more time to see more games in town since London is home to clubs in all four divisions, from Chelsea, Fulham, Tottenham, Arsenal, QPR, Brentford, West Ham, and others.
In the end, I was satisfied, and perhaps it wasn’t an odd time to be in London.
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Follow all of Marc’s stadium journeys on Twitter @ballparkhunter and his YouTube channel. Email at Marc.Viquez@stadiumjourney.com
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