Photos by Marc Viquez, Stadium Journey
Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.43
Craven Cottage Stevenage Rd London, England SW6 6HH
Year Opened: 1896
Capacity: 29,589
Craven Cottage: London's Historic Football Ground
Established in 1879, Fulham FC holds the distinction of being London’s oldest football club. The team has been based at Craven Cottage since its acquisition in 1894. Following the cleanup of debris, the club's inaugural match resulted in a 4-0 triumph over Minerva in the Middlesex Senior Cup.
In 1903, a wooden grandstand was constructed to accommodate the growing number of spectators. This stand, affectionately known as the “Rabbit Hutch,” was unfortunately condemned just two seasons later. It was subsequently replaced by a larger and more modern stand, which still exists today, marking 120 years since its construction.
Scottish architect Archibald Leitch was hired to design the structure, and Clyde Structural Iron Company provided the steelwork. The 5,000-seat stand cost £15,000 and opened for the 2005/06 season. The stands featured narrow entrances, iron turnstiles, and wooden theater-style seats. Twenty thousand spectators watched the first match at what was dubbed the Stevenage Road Stand, renamed a century later to the Johnny Haynes Stand after the passing of the club’s greatest player. It is a Grade II listed building protected by English Heritage.
The stadium is also known for an actual cottage in the corner of the stadium between the Haynes and Hammersmith Ends. The small cottage features a covered patio where players' families can watch the game. Home and away dressing rooms are downstairs.
The stadium is next to Bishop’s Park and along the banks of Thames River. The ground was originally a royal hunting lodge with a history dating back 300 years. The club has called Craven Cottage home since 1896, except when it shared Loftus Road with Queens Park Rangers from 2002-2004.
The home of the Cottagers is expanding with The Riverside renovation that will present a year-round destination for visitors. It will offer restaurants, bars, boutiques, a sky deck, a hotel, and a riverside market. The increased seating and hospitality areas will also bring in additional revenue to the club. However, the changes will not affect the history and charm of Craven Cottage, one of England’s historic football cathedrals.
Food & Beverage 3
Craven Cottage offers typical football cuisine at its numerous concession stands. These include the Fulham Frankfurter, a plain or topped hot dog with caramelized onions, pickles, bacon crumbles, and chives. The stadium also offers signature sausage rolls, burgers, and pizza slices. It serves Willy’s Pies in chicken balti, minced beef, chicken and sage, and steak and ale.
Hot beverages (coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and Brovil) and alcoholic beverages. Fans can enjoy a pint of Guinness and Camden Hill varieties during the half. Wine and cider are also available for non-beer drinkers at the game.
Atmosphere 3
Craven Cottage provides a uniquely intimate atmosphere unlike any other ground in the Premiership. With fans seated close to the pitch, they feel deeply connected to the action. Each stand offers a cozy, distinctive experience, where home and away supporters come together in a warm and welcoming environment, creating a friendly vibe that's rare among the city's stadiums.
The Johnny Haynes Stand dates back to 1905 and features a facade facing the street with decorative pillars and the club’s old emblem in the artwork. Fans walk through narrow and rickety turnstiles that date back to the same year, a system that has fans enter the doorways sideways. Once inside, 3,571 wooden seats were designed in 1955 to mimic the original 1905 seating designs. This area will house a majority of the season ticket holders, the ticket offices, and the team shop.
The Putney End is the southernmost stand and houses visiting and away supporters. It is one of the only grounds in the EFL to have a stand designated for both supporters. The Hammersmith End houses home supporters, notably the vocal Stand Up Crew.
The Riverside Stand is behind the River Thames and is elevated much higher than the other stands at the Cottage. The area seats 8,000 people and is home to corporate hospitality seating; it is in the final stages of being transformed into an entertainment area that will feature a sky deck, pool, hotel, restaurants, pubs, and a public market with access to a sidewalk along the Thames.
Neighborhood 4
The neighborhood near Craven Cottage is very posh, with residential homes, parks, and rowing clubs across the Thames. The narrow streets outside the Johnny Haynes Stand become crowded on match days. There are many pubs and restaurants within walking distance to grab a pint.
The Eight Bells is friendly to home and away fans, but due to its size, it becomes congested before matches. It is a 17th-century-style tavern offering traditional English pubs and a favorite among the older Fulham audience. The Crabtree is another pub that is friendly to away fans and offers food and a beer garden. Both are a 10-minute walk from the stadium.
There are more spots to grab a bite to eat or drink at The Gold Lion and The Temperance. Fishers offers takeaway fish and chips, The Durell Arms offers vegetarian and vegan cuisine, and Gola is known for its pizza and Italian dishes. Pure Indian Cooking is another restaurant to try for authenticity.
Stamford Bridge, the home of Chelsea, is 2 miles away from Craven Cottage in Fulham. It might be open for a tour or a possible game. Brentford Community Stadium is nearby, less than 6 miles away, and Cherry Red Records Stadium is 5 miles to the south.
Fans 4
The fans are passionate, but they are also friendly and welcoming to fans. It is one of the few stadiums in English Football that allows home and away supporters to sit together. That is a testament to the culture of the Fulham faithful, but also inviting to anyone who wants to enjoy a game without any concerns. The stadium has never had any history of violence or rowdiness from fans. It is where one goes to enjoy a pleasant afternoon of football.
Access 3
As with most football grounds in London, it is best to access Craven Cottage via bus. The 74, 85, C4, 2020, and 424 buses run near the stadium. Another option is to arrive by the District Line (Putney Bridge) on The Underground and walk a mile to the stadium along the Thames.
It is not recommended to travel by car to the game; there is no public parking, and the narrow residential streets are for permits only. London boasts one of the world’s best public transportation systems, making it easy to get around by bus or the Tube.
If you have a ticket for the Johnny Haynes Stand, be ready to navigate the narrow turnstiles, originally designed for fans in 1905. Unless you are around 5 feet 3 inches tall, expect a tight squeeze as you enter the stadium through this historic entrance, leading to both the Putney and Hammersmith Ends.
Return on Investment 4
Adult ticket prices range from as low as £55 for a seat in the Hammersmith Stand to as high as £125 in the Riverside Stand. The most affordable option is in the Johnny Haynes Family Stand, where adult tickets start at £24. As expected, reduced prices are available for fans aged 17 and under, as well as those over 65.
The price of concessions is reasonable compared with other clubs in the Premier League, but we're a bit on the higher side. There are combo meals that include pie and beer, a burger and a beer, or a burger and a Coke for a valued price.
The official team store is filled with gear from kits, scarves, caps, jackets, shorts, and much more. The prices are in line with members of the Premier League.
As always, it is advisable to purchase a ticket in advance. At this time, Fulham is averaging 25,000-plus in the 29,589-capacity stadium. Prices will increase depending on the opponent.
Extras 3
Craven Cottage earns an extra point for the Johnny Haynes Stand, which features a facade that takes visitors back to 1905. Inside, the old wooden seats are still intact, adding more nostalgia to the match.
Fulham offers season-ticket holders in the Johnny Hayne Stand a pint of beer for £1 if they arrive an hour early to facilitate traffic into the stadium. The standstill has its original narrow entrances that require many of us to enter sideways through the original turnstiles.
There is an actual cottage inside Craven Cottage, allowing players' families to watch the game from the balcony. The downstairs portion serves as the home and away locker rooms for players and is among the smallest in the league.
Final Thoughts
Craven Cottage is the oldest football ground in London and steep in history. It is going through renovations to modernize the facility, and The Riverside Stand will be the key to future entertainment options along the Thames. If curious about seeing a stadium’s future and past, purchase a ticket to the Fulham game when in town.
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Follow all of Marc’s stadium journeys on Twitter @ballparkhunter and his YouTube channel. Email at Marc.Viquez@stadiumjourney.com
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